MUCH more information can be found at www.clickertraining.com
Clicker training (Operant Conditioning) is
how wolves, whales/dolphins, seals, penguins, rabbits, chickens geese,
ducks, sheep, etc . are trained in the TV and movies (started by the dolphin
trainers).
Clicker training is a kind and gentle way to train your
dog, horse, bird, cat, etc., using a clicker (a plastic box with a strip of
metal in it that makes a click noise when you depress it), or at times a
whistle, as a superior way to say to our animals, "What you are doing at
the exact moment you hear this noise has just earned you a treat (or other
reward, such as a tossed toy)."
( "OHHHHH……so that 's what you've been asking !!!!! )
The trick is to click and then to treat….. Click at the
"exact" moment when
the animal does what you want it to do….. And not a half a second later, right
now so the animal can go…. "oh, that, "that", you mean that?"
The click doesn't tell the animal what to do -- its just a nifty and more
efficient way of saying "Good dog (bird, cat, horse, etc.) ! What
you're doing right at the instant you hear the click is what will earn you a
reward!"
(Generally training your dogs (birds, cats,
horses, etc.) will generally improve their behavior, and should also make them
seem happier and more bonded to you.)
What we do is based on the science of animal behaviorism
known as operant
conditioning. Once the behavior you want is learned you no longer need
to continue to click for it, just give the word/ and or hand cue for what
you want! So it is the same with any animal species
MUCH more information can be found at www.clickertraining.com
(Click on the picture to enlarge it)
The above picture shows the
back of the clicker, and another clicker with a "button" on it, which now is included with all my clickers at no extra charge. These
"buttons" vary in appearance, depending on availability. It makes it possible to "CLICK" with
gloves on, since you don't have to fit a thumb or finger into the clicker
to activate it. This also shows the lanyard with the cord lock and cord
end on it.
Clicker instructions!
Getting Started with
the Clicker
by Karen Pryor (www.clickertraining.com)
Clicker training is a new, science
based way to teach behavior. It’s easier to learn than standard command-based
training. You can clicker train any kind of learner, of any age. Puppies love
it. Old dogs learn new tricks. You can clicker-train horses, cats, birds, and
even people. Clicker training builds good behavior instead of trying to stop bad
behavior. It is a fast and easy way to get the results you want. Here are some
tips to get you started.
CLICK. Then treat. -- Push and
release the springy end of the clicker, making a two-toned CLICK. Then treat.
Keep the treats small. Use a delicious treat at first: for a dog, little cubes
of roast chicken, not a lump of kibble.
CLICK for what you want, instead of
scolding for what you don’t want. -- CLICK the puppy for relieving itself in the
proper spot. CLICK for doggy paws on the ground, not on the visitors. CLICK your
horse for lowering its head and standing still instead of pulling away. CLICK
for quiet instead of noise.
CLICK during the desired
behavior, not after it is completed. -- The timing of the click is crucial.
Don’t be dismayed if your pet stops the behavior when it hears the click. The
click ends the behavior. Give the treat after that; the timing of the treat is
not important.
CLICK something easy at first. --
CLICK for something that the pet is likely to do on its own. (Ideas: come toward
you; touch your hand with its nose; lift one foot; go through a door; walk next
to you.)
CLICK once (in-out). - If you want
to express special enthusiasm, increase the number of treats, not the number of
clicks. Vocal praise and petting can be added too, but only after the click;
it’s the click that makes it clear what all the fuss is about.
Keep practice sessions short. --
You’ll get much better results in three sessions, each two or three minutes
long, than in an hour of repetition. You can teach many new skills by fitting a
few clicks a day here and there in your normal routine. This is what makes this
Clicker / Pendant so useful! You can wear it all the time so it is handy to
catch that good behavior with a CLICK!
CLICK for voluntary (or accidental)
movements toward your goal. -- Let your pet discover how to make you click;
don’t continuously coax or lure the movement. Don’t push, pull, or hold your
pet. If you need a leash for safety’s sake, loop the leash over your arm or
through your belt; don’t use it as a tool.
CLICK and treat for small movements
in the right direction. -- don’t wait for the "whole picture" or the perfect
behavior. If you want a dog to sit, click, at first, when it starts to crouch in
back. If you want a pet to come when called, begin by clicking when it takes a
few steps your way, then go to it and give the treat; don’t expect it to come
all the way to you from the beginning.
Keep raising your goal. -- As soon
as you have a good response -- when your pet is voluntarily lying down, or
sitting, or coming toward you --- start asking for more. Wait a few beats, until
your learner stays down a little longer, comes a little further, sits a little
faster. Then CLICK. This is called "shaping" a behavior.
Introduce the cue after the behavior
is learned. -- When a pet has learned to do something for clicks, it will begin
showing you the behavior spontaneously, trying to get you to click. Now is the
time to begin offering a cue, such as a word or a hand signal. Start clicking
for that behavior if it happens during or after the cue. Start ignoring that
behavior when the cue wasn’t given.
Don’t give orders. -- Clicker
training is not command-based. If your pet does not respond to a cue, it is not
"disobeying", it just hasn’t learned the cue completely. Make the task a little
easier and find more opportunities to click the correct response, in different
environments.
Turn daily life into a learning
experience.-- CLICK (or use the word "good") when your pet does something cute
(such as cocking the head, chasing the tail, or holding up one paw) or when it
does something useful, such as letting you go through a door first. You can
click and treat for many different behaviors, whenever you happen to notice
them, without confusing your pet.
Train one pet at a time, at first.
-- If you have two or more subjects to train, separate them, and let them take
turns. Hearing someone else get clicked will make each one more anxious for
their own turn to learn.
If you get mad, put the clicker
away. -- Don’t mix scolding, leash-jerking, and correction training with clicker
training; your learner will lose confidence in the clicker and perhaps in you.
No progress? -- You’re clicking too
late. Accurate timing is important! Improve your timing by getting someone else
to watch you, and perhaps to click for you, a few times.
Above all, have fun.
Clicker-training is a wonderful way to enrich your relationship with the animals
that love you.
(more Clicker information here)
|